Read our blog for tips, resources, and educational posts regarding lawn care!
Besides turf-damaging insects, lawn diseases can also cause problems. Lawn diseases are usually the result of a combination of factors coming together at the same time to allow the disease to take hold of the turf-grass plant. Although treatment for lawn diseases is possible, it is not always advised as many turf diseases will correct themselves as soon as conditions improve.
Lawn diseases are most often the result of the right conditions combining with the right time of year. Usually a lawn disease does not need to be treated (there are a few exceptions) but the conditions causing the disease should be addressed as soon as possible.
|Snowmold is most common to Kentucky Bluegrass and Fescues. Appears more often when we’ve had a winter when snow remains on the lawn for an extended period of time.||The best prevention for snowmold is to aerate often. Improving water drainage, raking leaves off lawn’s surface, and follow a fertilization schedule to help prevent over-fertilization in the late-fall can also help.|
|Dollar spot is common to closely cut Kentucky Bluegrass during humid weather conditions. The disease gets its name from the small silver dollar-like shapes. Usually looks brown or straw-colored in appearance. The spots may merge to form large patches several feet wide|
Usually, here in Central Ohio, we have plenty of rainfall to keep a lawn in good condition. However, there are times when rainfall becomes erratic and your lawn can turn brown without providing supplemental watering.
Our lawns require about 1″ of water per week before they start going into dormancy. Obviously, if your lawn doesn’t get 1″ of water for 1 week, it’s not going to die or turn brown. However, if that lack of water starts to expand to 3 weeks, then the lawn will go dormant. Dormancy is a lawns way of surviving till the water returns. A lawn can survive in dormancy for many weeks before it dies. Although a dormant lawn looks bad, it will return in most cases except in extreme cases where adequate water is absent for more than a month (which happens rarely in Central Ohio).
It is best to water the lawn until runoff just begins, and avoid watering each day. The number of times to water each week depends on how long the irrigation system can run before water just starts to puddle or run off the soil surface laterally. For example, if your lawn needs 40 minutes of irrigation each week, but runoff begins after 20 minutes, then water twice a week for 20 minutes.
In cases where soil takes up water so slowly that runoff occurs before 10 minutes, water cycling may be necessary. To cycle, irrigate until runoff just begins, turn the system off, and repeat the process in 30 minutes before the soil surface dries out. Several cycles per day may be ...
Great lawns don’t just grow, they have to be cut regularly. If you mow your own lawn, you should know that how you cut your lawn plays a big part in the health and appearance of your lawn. Don’t just assume that because you’ve been doing it this way for years and years, that you’re doing it right.
Beautiful, healthy lawns really set off everything about your home and landscape. Achieving that quality lawn does require a little extra effort, but the results are well worth those efforts. One place where you can make a big difference is in the way you cut your grass. The following are some great tips that will go a long way to improving your lawn’s health and appearance:
Don’t cut your grass too short, particular for our cool season grasses. Higher heights usually provide for a deeper root system, looks better, and is less likely to have weeds invading, particularly crabgrass.
Don’t remove any more than one-third of the grass leaf at any one cutting. If circumstances arise that a lawn gets too tall and you just have to lop off a bunch to get caught up, bite the bullet and break it down into several mowing’s to get caught up with 3 or so days between cuttings.
Try to avoid mowing when the grass is wet.
When mowing only a third with each cutting, you can safely leave clippings that will quickly decompose and add nutrients back into the soil. Contrary to popular opinion, grass clippings do not add to thatch buildup....
Many insects are beneficial to the turf in that they aid in the decomposition of organic matter, improve soil structure and soil aeration and some are predators of other, more harmful organisms. Nonetheless, many insects present problems for the homeowner and care should be taken to monitor their activities before they cause extensive damage.
Here in Ohio, we have several turf damaging insects that can create problems.
White grubs are the larval stage of beetles, such as the Japanese beetle and June Bug. They can cause extensive damage when their numbers reach a significant number in the soil.
Mature beetles lay 100s of eggs in the soil in June and July. The eggs hatch into a small grub that is lives just below the soils surface. They immediately begin feeding on the roots of the grass plants. As they mature, the grubs become larger with larger appetites. By early fall, with heavy infestations, dead patches in the lawn will start appearing in the lawn. By late fall the grubs begin burrowing down deeper into the soil where they hibernate over the winter months to reemerge the following year as a beetle.
We can control grubs before they can cause damage. The time to control them is when they hatch. Our grub control program will destroy them without harming other insects in the soil.
Chinch bugs, unlike grubs, are surface feeding insects that actually attack a blade of grass near the soil. They don’t actually eat the grass, but puncture a hole in the leaf...
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